Albania Winter 2000

March 3

    Mandi (our driver) and I should have known better. From this experience of ours, I'd like to teach you through this cheerless account of how to drive in rainy Albania. 
    Third world countries have third world streets. Ok, I know that's a no-brainer. But pay attention now, third world streets have third world holes. (Don't say duh!) Even the dullest eye can see a piano in the street (which I've seen) or a load of cheese all over the pavement (It looked like a mixture of shaving cream and Tide.) You can expect anything on the surface in Albania. 
    Let me throw in a word or two of explanation. Third world holes don't just develop over time. Often the water mains break, eroding washtub-size holes, overnight manhole covers are stolen for scrap metal, or someone steals the stones that a Good Samaritan has just used to fill the hole.
    When driving in Albania the surprises are never over. When it rains here in Tirana, the streets become a refuge for the run off water. Like a saucer for spilled coffee the water sits between curbs sometimes 6-8 inches deep. Of course, driving then takes on a new dimension. Obviously those holes are under the surface of the water level and at this point Mandi switches on the sonar. He likens himself to the captain of a ship taking readings as we crawl along. 
    Our embarrassing situation (pictured) happened in an instant. One moment we were fine, motoring to our destination, and then this deep impression over took us! I remember the suspense and stillness after we dropped. The suspense came from our sudden jolt; the stillness from our disbelief that we had become a victim. You are never prepared for something this unexpected. 
    Some choices lay before us and after reflecting on our options and a taking a quick tally, we jumped in the water and waded to the sidewalk as the crowd gathered. All attempts to dislodge the Volkswagen were fruitless. Then matters took another sudden turn. Mandi saw a backhoe coming and God answered our prayers. The operator stopped, we attached the tow rope, he gave a quick tug, and we popped from our watery station like bread from a toaster! We tried to thank him but he was in a hurry. You see, he was on his way to pull his own van from the same situation two blocks away.

    Winter 2000 Index